Pool Cover Motor Installation: 5-Minute Step-by-Step Guide
Installing a motorized retrofit on an existing pool reel is about as close to plug-and-play as outdoor pool equipment gets. The whole job takes about five minutes once the box is opened. This guide walks through it step by step with the exact details that trip people up.
If you haven't ordered yet and want to confirm the motor will fit your reel, see our adapter sizes guide. If you want the conceptual overview first, see how to motorize a pool blanket reel.
In this guide
- What's in the box
- Before you start
- Step 1 — Remove the existing hand crank
- Step 2 — Slide in the motor shaft
- Step 3 — Lock with the screw
- Step 4 — Mount the solar-battery-unit
- Step 5 — Position the solar panel
- Step 6 — First power-on and remote test
- The two switches you need to understand
- Common first-day issues
- FAQ
What's in the box
A standard Lux Pool motor kit ships with:
- Motorized stub-shaft assembly (the part that slides into your reel tube)
- Solar-battery-unit (SBU) — sealed box containing lithium-ion battery, charge controller, and motor driver
- Solar panel (mounted to or attached by short cable to the SBU)
- Handheld 433 MHz remote with CR2032 coin-cell, child-safety pry-open battery door
- 3-inch adapter sleeve (or whichever size you ordered)
- DC wall-charger backup (2.1mm × 5.5mm jack)
- Mounting clamps for the SBU
Before you start
Five-minute job. Tools needed: Phillips-head screwdriver. That's it.
Confirm before you open the package:
- Adapter size matches your reel tube (text a tube photo to 740-495-6832 if unsure)
- Reel is empty — blanket is off the pool, rolled aside, or wrapped on the tube but not under tension
- Sunny spot for the SBU mounting location (or near enough that you can extend the small panel cable)
Step 1 — Remove the existing hand crank
Locate the screw at the end of your reel tube where the hand crank attaches. Most reels use a single Phillips-head screw. Back it out and set it aside — you'll need it for step 3.
Slide the hand crank assembly straight out of the tube. It should come out with light hand pressure. If it's stuck (corrosion, weld slag), gentle rocking with a rubber mallet usually frees it.
Keep the old crank. If the motor ever needs service you can re-install the crank as a manual backup.
Step 2 — Slide in the motor shaft
The motor stub-shaft is sized to match the diameter of the hand crank you just removed (via the adapter). Slide it into the tube end where the crank used to live.
It should slide in with light hand pressure and seat flush against the tube end. If it won't go all the way in, stop. Don't force it. The adapter is probably wrong. Pull the shaft, confirm adapter size against your tube ID, and contact support for a swap if needed.
If the shaft is loose and rattles inside the tube, the adapter is too small. Same answer: pull and swap.
Step 3 — Lock with the screw
Drive the screw you saved in step 1 back into the same hole it came from. It now locks the motor shaft in place instead of the hand crank. Snug but not over-torqued — aluminum tubes don't love over-torqued screws.
Step 4 — Mount the solar-battery-unit
The SBU clamps onto one of the T-leg uprights on your reel. No drilling required. Position it on the same end as the motor (the cable from the SBU to the motor is short by design — about 12 inches).
The clamps tighten with thumb-screws. Snug them down so the SBU doesn't slip when you move the reel.
Skip the DIY — get the Lux Pool motor kit
This guide walks through the box-to-first-roll experience. If you haven't bought the kit yet, here's where to start.
View motor kits →Step 5 — Position the solar panel
If the panel is integrated into the SBU, position the whole SBU so the panel faces roughly south (for northern hemisphere installs). The panel works at angles — you don't need a perfect equatorial tilt — but direct sun is better than shade.
If the panel is on a short cable separate from the SBU, mount the SBU somewhere shaded or protected (under the deck edge, etc.) and put the panel itself in direct sun.
The panel charges the lithium-ion battery slowly throughout the day. The motor draws from the battery on demand. Three to four days of decent sun is enough to fully charge from empty.
Step 6 — First power-on and remote test
Flip the white switch on the SBU to ON. This is the main power switch.
If you have the newer L-shaped design, charging works with the white switch in either position. Older inline models require the white switch ON for solar charging.
Press the up arrow on the remote. The motor should engage and start rolling the tube. Press the down arrow to reverse. Press the center / stop button (or release the directional button) to halt.
A 20×40 cover rolls up in about 90 seconds. Smaller covers proportionally faster.
If nothing happens on the first remote press: confirm the white switch is ON, the SBU is connected to the motor, and the CR2032 coin-cell in the remote is fresh (the remote ships with a battery installed but it's possible the contact tab wasn't removed — check inside the pry-open battery door).
The two switches you need to understand
There are two switches on the SBU. Knowing what they do prevents 90% of "why isn't it working" calls:
| Switch | Location | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| White switch | Side of SBU | Main power. ON during swim season. OFF for winter storage. (Newer L-shaped: charges either way; pre-2024 inline: must be ON to charge from solar.) |
| Black switch | Back of SBU | Motor manual override — direction control independent of remote. Used during service or if remote is unavailable. |
You should rarely need the black switch. Use the remote for daily operation. The black switch is there for diagnostics and emergencies.
Common first-day issues
Motor runs but tube doesn't turn
Adapter is too small — shaft is spinning inside the tube. Pull the shaft, confirm adapter size, swap.
Remote does nothing
Three checks in order: (1) white switch ON; (2) CR2032 battery in remote (pry open the battery door — sometimes a packing tab is still between the cell and the contact); (3) SBU has charge (solid red LED on DC charger means it's charging from wall power; if you're testing during shipping arrival, give it 30 min on the DC charger first).
Motor runs briefly then stops
Battery low. Plug in the DC wall charger for 24 hours and the LED goes from red (charging) to green (full). Then test again.
Random nighttime activation
This is RF interference — another 433 MHz device in range (garage door, LED yard light, walkie-talkie, even a neighbor's kid's RC toy). The fix: turn the white switch OFF when not actively using the motor. This is a known characteristic of 433 MHz receivers, not a defect.
Solar panel detaches from controller box
Small ribbon cable inside — reseat. If the cable is damaged, ship the SBU in for service ($72 typical).
Submerged in pool water
Don't DC-charge a submerged unit — chlorinated pool water permanently damages the battery and components. Fire hazard if you try to charge it. Order a replacement SBU ($269.87 typical) and a free anchor kit to prevent future wind-into-pool incidents.
You're done
That's the entire install. The motor pairs at the factory so there's no codes to enter. The SBU charges itself from the panel after the first power-on (with the DC charger as backup for cloudy weeks or post-winter wake-up).
If you watch the assembly video at lux-pool.com/assembly, the whole sequence is on camera in real time.